If it wasn't for Florian Reuter, I wouldn't have got so drunk.
We sampled the beer in every quarter of our late-September European trip from Berlin to Frankfurt and on to Brussels and parts West. Florian is an adventurous beer drinker and I must admit that the sense of adventure as we drove the autobahn at no mean speed Eastward through the Weimar country to Berlin with his lovely & excellent wife, Maren, it all about took me over.
I'll cut to the chase. The winner was the original Bud, Budweiser Budvar, from the Bohemian parts of the Czech Republic. I already had known enough from the folk taverns of Bleeker Street to single out Pilsner Urquel as among my very favorite beers in a pinch or with a sandwich -- thick-cut peasant loaf or multigrain & mustard please. Budvar is like that, being from the Plzen area, but it combines that rarity of balance, flavor and lightness, and I have encountered no better blend of these qualities in any beer.
For me now it is the original Bud! The beer of kings (not the King of Beers).
We drank fresh 2-pint pitchers of Budvar on the breezy terrace of the Mud Dock over the canal in Bristol with a sunset and a view of the colorful Dutch barges tied up that serve as floating apartments for a few of the citizenry. You could see a row of connected Georgian houses painted in lively pastels on a cliff opposite and at the base of the cliff's limestone facade there were small apertures, doors with wrought-iron gates and limestone steps which one imagines lead back and under the houses for carting provisions up from the canal. Knowing locals indicated these passages are the telltale remnants of Bristol's role in the slave trade (Bristol is typically first associated with the Port wine trade), a shameful reminder that the Germans aren't the only people with a heavy legacy.
The beer, though, diverted our minds from dour thoughts, from the painful past, as we tried hard to think through potential business models
that might flourish around the OpenDocument Format (people don't pay for a standard, they pay for software). Gulping Budvar and eating tappas, Florian -- opposite -- who is a kind & considerate travel companion, was unaware that my mind at that moment drifted back to the late 1980's to my Fuqua finance professor and rugby teammate, the indefatiguable Australian, Tom Fletcher, who had an amusing story ready when some of our class was having trouble understanding bond-yield math (Price moves inversely to Yield, girls and marketing majors seemed to have difficulty with this concept).
Fletcher, though a professor, was one of those people easily underestimated: approachable with an extremely sharp mind, though aggressively self-effacing. Then, he was verging on portly but he was swift to the gap with the ball on the wing in Sevens, darting-quick and hard to stop. He's one of those rugby players that you would follow blindly, quickly into any ruck because something unexpected would be coming. Killer instinct. Tom said,
"Back in Australia, my mates & I when we come to a difficult problem we can't solve straight off, we put it all down and have a Foster's." (I paraphrase. Tom's office fridge was well stocked and certain of us had unlimited access while on "research projects".) He said, "If after a while we still can't think of the solution, we'll have another. Eventually, everything sorts itself out."
Words to live by. Never more so than when trying to make money in Free Software.
Before Bristol, O'Reilly's EuroOSCON '06 brought us to Brussels. The Belgian beers I generally find too sweet and overbearing. I have sampled Hennepin in the quart bottle with a cork (brewed from the original Belgian recipe in Cooperstown, New York) -- too rich for my taste. Duvel, too, although it is less imposing. But I learned that, like the French who eat cheeses with their wines, the Belgians eat cheeses with beer. This puts the Belgian trappist ales in a whole new light; so I am willing to go back for another try, with fromage. (Notice that the well-known Chimay label is also a maker of fine cheeses.)
I had a Chimay Bleue, which is so dark and sweetly pungient that I nearly gagged -- though I was a big boy and finished the whole thing. My friend Andrew spares no expense to stock the Chimay, and I admit to being taken in by his enthusiasm. In the comfortable Le Plaza Hotel bar, where the waiters seemed to have a big problem with Americans (what they couldn't appreciate is that so do I), Florian had a Westmalle -- coming from one of the seven Trappist establishments, this one in Antwerp, Holland. This I tasted on Florian's excitement; it is a unique beer for its extreme sweetness and champaign-like bubbliness. Women are believed to like the Westmalle brew. Myself, I'll take a Westmalle Tripel only on occasion, though it should be quite something with a correct cheese.
My favorite of the Belgians -- perhaps because it is rather less-Belgian -- was Leffe (pronounced, lef'). The Blonde was what I had, late at night at an outdoor cafe on a busy avenue.
Less overwhelming and fresh it was, indeed. Good balance, though still sweet and lots of flavor -- almond you might say. Leffe is one of those beers widely available in France and Belgium based upon its quality and not so much on marketing.
Onward from Bristol to Dublin traveled our caravan, Van Morrison's wonderful tune in my head. It was to be none other than Guinness, supplemented at O'Sullivan's Bar outside the gates of Trinity College with several Bushmill's -- neat.
In Dublin, when not with the KDE aKademy's ODF Day, generously sponsored by Intel among others, we were blessed by the good recommendations of Paul Thorne, who's Decent Cigar Emporium on Grafton Street will be your stop too for Cigarillos Habanas. I approached Paul in his nicely appointed upstairs shop with palms upraised for a recommendation, something medium or heavy. Exclaimed Paul, reaching for the Partagas, "Now this is something I insist upon." Paul pointed us to McGuire's on Baggot Street with an open smoking area in the rear and a word that McGuire's is "not complete without attractive European ladies." At McGuire's we pleasurably quaffed Guiness, had our smokes and caught Hamburg v. CSK Moscow in the Champion's League on HD.
Now, these are a few of my favorite things.
For more background on the amazing Plzen culture, see Evan Rail's wonderfully readable story, "The Ultimate Beer Run in the Czech Republic," from August in The New York Times.
Around Europe, a handful of beer trails have already emerged, like the lambic breweries of the Senne Valley in Belgium, the seven Trappist monastery breweries of Belgium and the Netherlands,
and the dozen or so Kölsch beer makers of Cologne. But the Czech lands
are, in some ways, the birthplace of modern beer making, with a brewing
history that dates back more than a millennium.
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